After learning how to snorkel, beach visits will never be the same.
On one of my first weekends in Samoa, a group of us took a bus down to the south side of Upolu for lunch and snorkeling at Lafuga Bay (for more on buses in Samoa, see my earlier blog post).
Now my first attempt at snorkeling – just the weekend before – was very brief and involved lots of spluttering and inhaled water. If any of you have seen the episode of Parks and Rec where they have to design a new, spoutless water fountain for Pawnee (Season 4, Episode 17 – “Campaign Shake-Up"), you will have an excellent visual for why my first attempts at snorkeling failed. Luckily, after a few helpful tips (i.e. don’t put your mouth over the entire mouth piece) and a couple mask adjustments, I was on my way. And it was incredible.
After a short swim, we were able to see a group of giant clams very similar to the ones in the photo below. As I swam above the clams, watching their shells open and close and streams of bubbles float to the ocean surface, it finally hit me. I am on an island. I am going to get to see amazing marine life like this whenever I want for the next ten months. This is awesome.
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| These Giant Clams are very similar to the ones I saw while snorkeling at Lafuga Bay. Source: http://www.earthrangers.com/wildwire/omg_animals/the-giant-clam%E2%80%99s-home/ |
Samoa is impressively beautiful inside and out.
Traveling to the south side of the island via the Le Mafa Pass or Cross Island Road, I quickly discovered that Samoa’s interior landscape is as impressive and breathtaking as its coastal views. A drive across Upolu includes green vistas straight out of Jurassic Park and side trips to a number of beautiful lakes and waterfalls.
After first moving into my house in Vaivase-Tai (one of the residential areas around Apia), my housemates and I made the trek up a rather bumpy road to arrive at Sauniatu Falls. Because we visited on a Sunday, we were not able to swim. While it was rather miserable to sweat over our picnic lunch and not be able to dive into the beautiful blue water, at least I was able to get this people-free shot. A group of us went back to swim several weeks later, and there was quite a number of people also enjoying a swim by the waterfall. And a few of the more intrepid – or perhaps crazy? – members of our group decided to make the over sixty foot jump from the cliff into the water below.
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| It took all of my restraint to not immediately dive into the cool water by the beautiful Sauniatu Falls. |
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| A view of the Samoan wilderness from up “on the hill” (i.e. the large hill you drive over when taking Cross Island Road). |
Staying in a Samoan Fale means actually falling asleep to the sound of the ocean.
Upon arriving in Samoa, I was immediately told that I would not have the full Samoan beach experience until I had stayed in a traditional Samoan fale. Numerous beach resorts across the island offer their visitors the option of spending the night in one of these simple, thatched roofs huts. When I stayed, the cost was as low as USD 28 per person. And the view is much better than the bunk beds you’d be staring at inside a European hostel of similar price.
These circular huts are completely open, with panels or a tarp that you can lower if you end up at the beach on a rainy day. This makes it a very cool place to sleep whenever an ocean breeze rolls through, but it definitely takes some getting used to. I have stayed in two different fales now, and despite the soothing, steady sounds of the ocean, it took me quite some time to drift off to sleep. I think it will take a few more fale experiences before my body is fully accustomed to this very new sleeping arrangement. On the plus side, my light sleeping meant that I woke up in time to step out and watch a beautiful sunrise (before heading back to the fale for a few more hours of sleep).
I also particularly enjoyed the fales at Lalomanu Beach (the first picture below) because of the open shady space underneath. I could still enjoy drying off on the beach while hiding in some nice shade – the perfect set up for my super fair skin!
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| I spent a lovely weekend in this colorful fale at Lalomanu Beach, a very popular tourist destination on the south side of Upolu. |
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| The inside of a fale at Hideaway Beach Resort. In most fales, the mattresses are just placed on the floor, so we were surprised to find these cute little beds. |
A beach sunset truly never gets old.
One of the best parts about staying the night in a beachside fale is that you have a front row seat to some of the most incredible sunsets and sunrises I have ever seen. No picture can really do justice to the total peace and calm of those moments. Listening to the waves lap on the beach. Watching the sun radiate across and slowly be enveloped by the ocean. Seeing the sky flush with changing shades of yellow, orange, pink. It was truly magical.
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| The sun began to set while we were having dinner by this beautiful beach, but I ran back to the fale and managed to nab my camera in time to get this shot. |
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| While at Lalomanu Beach, I was able to sit on a deck and enjoy both this sunset and an incredible sunrise the next morning. |
These beautiful sunsets seem like a good place to end this post. I will definitely be sharing more pictures in the future, so stay tuned!
Here is another dose of introductory Samoan:
‘O ai lou suafa? (What’s your name?)
‘O lo’u igoa o Marie-Claire. (My name is Marie-Claire.)
